![]() ![]() While this may not be true of all HD stores it does seem to be a real issue with many of them. Other members here have reported the same sort of activity at their HD stores. Personally around here I would never buy liquid pool chlorine from HD as I KNOW my local HD buys it in bulk and stores it outdoors in the garden center, and have watched shrink wrapped pallets sit outside there for YEARS. So you should be careful particularly this time of year that any 10-12% pool chlorine is fresh, and not left over from last year, as the left over stuff may be weaker than the fresh 8% bleach from the grocery store. In addition to this the stronger it is the faster it looses potency. So freshness and climate control count, most bleach will have a manufacture date code printed on the bottles, it is wise to check this when buying (usually the format will include year, day of year and plant code where it was made, which is often a state abbreviation and a number), and only buy from sources with higher turnover rate. The first thing you need to know is that liquid chlorine / bleach looses strength over time as it outgases, also storage condition matters as it looses strength faster if stored in a hot location. I am sure you will get a lot more advice here on the side points you bring up, so I am going to stick with answering the main question. Please see the TFP Pool School and Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry for more on that. Those tablets can be harmful to your chemistry if not used properly. You'll hear more about that as time goes on here at TFP. ![]() The other items are used more for folks who use tablets/pucks, and such. ![]() On the Poolmath calculator, you'll want to ensure you enter the correct % for the liquid bleach you have (i.e. No scentless, splashless, or anything else fancy. Otherwise, most folks who do manual feeding (like me) simply get the generic (regular) bleach from local stores like Wal-Mart or the grocery store (8.25%). Higher % can have their advantage (less required per application) as long as the bleach is not too old on the shelf. I would strongly encourage you to consider ordering a TF-100 (Taylor reagents) or Taylor K-2006 test kit from .Ģ - Chlorine is chlorine (sodium hypochlorite). Most important - lack of consistent accuracy plus they tend to push customers towards products not needed for your water to be balanced (i.e. You'll probably receive a couple main inputs right away:ġ - Never reply on test strips or the local pool store tests for more reasons than one. 1 Is the Chlorine from Home Depot ok to use Not sure if it’s like regular chlorine bleach or if I should stay away from it. Keep with the PhosFree during the summer or use an algaecide or both?ġ question when using the poolmath it is asking for type of cholorine. I have been using Phos Free from Natural Chemistry and got those #s under 300. I keep the pool clean very few leaves during the winter but my POS level was 2000 or greater. The only thing Leslie's does additional is Phosphorus testing. Just to verify my test I have also gone to Leslie Pools and had them test my water to just make sure I am ok. I also am using a Taylor complete High kit and AquaCheck 7 test strips ![]() If I am a DIY type of guy, is there any negative uses to using the HDX 10% vs a professional pool person who can use 12%? I had someone do my pool service during start up and left a bottle of hypochlorite solution 12% which I am guessing is 2% better than the Home Depot Brand. Home Depot is selling chlorine under the HDX brand which is KemKlor 10%. If you use a household cleaner that’s not among our picks and want to know whether it’s an effective coronavirus disinfectant, search for it on the EPA’s List N, the definitive and frequently updated resource.Wondering if someone can assist me with some questions about Chlorine. It’s equally important to know how to use a disinfectant properly-that means allowing enough time for a disinfectant to do its job, which can be as much as 10 minutes. You can also make an effective homemade disinfectant from a mixture of water and bleach, which you may already have on hand. The CDC now says that plain soap or detergent will remove most viruses from surfaces, and it recommends the use of disinfectant cleaners only if someone living in a home has COVID-19, or if someone with the illness has been in the home in the previous 24 hours. However, as of April 2021, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s position has been that contaminated surfaces are not a major source of coronavirus infection. This guide covers hard-surface household cleaners that are effective for general cleaning and also approved by the EPA to rapidly eliminate the virus that causes COVID-19. ![]()
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